Over 100 years ago, there was a small restaurant named “Chen Xingsheng Eatery” located in the northern suburbs of Chengdu. The owner, Chen Fuchun, ran the business, while his wife, Chen Liu, was the chef. Due to the pockmarks on Chen Liu’s face, people called her “Chen Mapo” (Mapo meaning “pockmarked old woman”).
The restaurant primarily served simple meals but also offered knife work services, where they would chop ingredients for customers.
At the time, oil porters frequently passed by and liked to eat at the restaurant. Occasionally, they would bring tofu, beef, and some oil from their buckets, and ask Chen Liu to cook the ingredients for them. Chen Liu had exceptional cooking skills and created a dish that was spicy, numbing, and hot, with the tofu being tender and the beef crispy and fragrant. The workers became addicted to this dish and often asked her to make it. Their frequent patronage helped spread the word about Chen’s eatery, attracting more and more customers.
To differentiate it from the tofu dishes at other restaurants, Chen referred to her version as “Mapo Tofu.” By the late Qing Dynasty, Mapo Tofu had already gained fame in Chengdu, and by the 1920s, it was widely recognized across China.
As Mapo Tofu gained popularity and spread to other regions, various adaptations emerged. One of the biggest changes was made by the Chen Xingsheng Eatery itself, which substituted beef with pork to cater to more customers. Though they later reverted to using beef, the pork version became widely accepted by chefs and diners across different areas. Another significant change to the recipe was the addition of Doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste).
In its early days, Mapo Tofu was cooked using vegetable oil and yellow cattle beef. The cooking method involved heating a large ladle of vegetable oil in a pot, adding a handful of ground chili followed by the beef, cooking it until it became dry and tender, and then adding fermented black beans. Afterward, the tofu was added with a little water, stirred lightly, and covered to simmer on low heat until the broth thickened. Before removing the dish from the pot, ground Sichuan pepper was sprinkled on top.
By the 1960s, the recipe evolved to include both beef and pork, as well as peanut oil. After the meat was stir-fried, doubanjiang, fermented black beans, red chili powder, soy sauce, salt, and sugar were added for flavor. Then, the sliced tofu and broth joined the mix which was brought to a boil. Scallions, ginger, and garlic came next, and cornstarch mixed with water was used to thicken the sauce. Before serving, ground Sichuan pepper and sesame oil were sprinkled on top. The ingredients and steps had evolved, but the flavor remained focused on spicy, fragrant, and savory sensations.
The key features of Mapo Tofu can be summarized in eight words: numbing, spicy, hot, fragrant, crispy, tender, fresh, and vivid.
Numbing (麻): This term refers to the sprinkling of ground Sichuan pepper on the tofu just before serving.
Spicy (è¾£): The dish uses doubanjiang made with red chilies, finely chopped and stir-fried with oil, making the tofu both spicy and aromatic.
Hot (烫): The tofu retains its heat, ensuring that every bite is piping hot, making it feel as though it’s just come off the stove.
Fragrant (香): As soon as the dish is served, there’s no smell of gypsum from the tofu or any unpleasant odor from the condiments, simply an aroma that whets the appetite.
Crispy (é…¥): The stir-fried minced meat has a golden, crispy texture that melts in the mouth.
Tender (å«©): The tofu, properly fried and poached, remains pure white and firm, yet tender enough to break with a spoon.
Fresh (鲜): All the ingredients in Mapo Tofu are fresh, with vibrant colors and perfectly balanced flavors.
Vivid (æ´»): When served, the chopped garlic sprouts stand upright in the bowl, appearing freshly picked and full of life. Yet, they are fully cooked and tender.
Mapo Tofu typically requires the sauce to be thickened two or three times, gradually increasing its viscosity to ensure it clings evenly to the tofu, without excess liquid. This tight, thick sauce is a hallmark of the dish.
The numbing from the Sichuan pepper, the spiciness from the chili, and the heat of the dish are actually sensations of pain, not flavor. These sensations stimulate the brain’s pituitary gland to release a rush of endorphins, creating a continuous sense of pleasure. This is why the dish is described as “explosively delicious” and can be so addictive that it’s hard to stop eating!
Mapo Tofu provides an intense sensory experience with its numbing, spicy, hot, fragrant, fresh, and smooth qualities. When served with rice, it delivers the most satisfying and flavorful meal.
